Blar i Faculty of Mathematics and Natural Sciences på forfatter "Bjørnestad, Maria"
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Exact solutions for shoaling waves in shallow water
Bjørnestad, Maria (Master thesis, 2017-03-22)The dynamics of shallow-water waves at the surface of an inviscid and incompressible fluid over a background shear flow approaching a sloping beach are investigated. First, we derive the nonlinear shallow-water equations ... -
Extreme wave runup on a steep coastal profile
Bjørnestad, Maria; Kalisch, Henrik (Journal article; Peer reviewed, 2020)It is shown that very steep coastal profiles can give rise to unexpectedly large wave events at the coast. We combine insight from exact solutions of a simplified mathematical model with photographs from observations at ... -
Lagrangian Measurements of Orbital Velocities in the Surf Zone
Bjørnestad, Maria; Buckley, M.; Kalisch, Henrik; Streßer, M.; Horstmann, J.; Frøysa, Hege Guldbrandsen; Ige, Olufemi Elijah; Cysewski, M.; Carrasco-Alvarez, R. (Journal article; Peer reviewed, 2021)Eulerian and Lagrangian measurements of orbital velocities in waves approaching a beach are analyzed with the goal of understanding the relative influence of wave-by-wave variations in mean-water level, wave height and ... -
A study of the influence of vorticity, capillarity and slope angle on the properties of shoaling and breaking waves
Bjørnestad, Maria (Doctoral thesis, 2021-10-28)Fluid motion and wave patterns have fascinated humans for centuries if not millennia. Water waves have been studied out of curiosity such as observing the ripples created by a stone dropped in a pond as well as practical ... -
Wave Breaking in Undular Bores with Shear Flows
Bjørnestad, Maria; Kalisch, Henrik; Abid, Malek; Kharif, Christian; Brun, Mats (Journal article; Peer reviewed, 2021)It is well known that weak hydraulic jumps and bores develop a growing number of surface oscillations behind the bore front. Defining the bore strength as the ratio of the head of the undular bore to the undisturbed depth, ...