Browsing Bergen Open Research Archive by Author "Bjørnestad, Maria"

Now showing items 1-6 of 6

    • Exact solutions for shoaling waves in shallow water 

      Bjørnestad, Maria (Master thesis, 2017-03-22)
      The dynamics of shallow-water waves at the surface of an inviscid and incompressible fluid over a background shear flow approaching a sloping beach are investigated. First, we derive the nonlinear shallow-water equations ...

    • Extreme wave runup on a steep coastal profile 

      Bjørnestad, Maria; Kalisch, Henrik (Journal article; Peer reviewed, 2020)
      It is shown that very steep coastal profiles can give rise to unexpectedly large wave events at the coast. We combine insight from exact solutions of a simplified mathematical model with photographs from observations at ...

    • Lagrangian Measurements of Orbital Velocities in the Surf Zone 

      Bjørnestad, Maria; Buckley, M.; Kalisch, Henrik; Streßer, M.; Horstmann, J.; Frøysa, Hege Guldbrandsen; Ige, Olufemi Elijah; Cysewski, M.; Carrasco-Alvarez, R. (Journal article; Peer reviewed, 2021)
      Eulerian and Lagrangian measurements of orbital velocities in waves approaching a beach are analyzed with the goal of understanding the relative influence of wave-by-wave variations in mean-water level, wave height and ...

    • A study of the influence of vorticity, capillarity and slope angle on the properties of shoaling and breaking waves 

      Bjørnestad, Maria (Doctoral thesis, 2021-10-28)
      Fluid motion and wave patterns have fascinated humans for centuries if not millennia. Water waves have been studied out of curiosity such as observing the ripples created by a stone dropped in a pond as well as practical ...

    • Wave Breaking in Undular Bores with Shear Flows 

      Bjørnestad, Maria; Kalisch, Henrik; Abid, Malek; Kharif, Christian; Brun, Mats (Journal article; Peer reviewed, 2021)
      It is well known that weak hydraulic jumps and bores develop a growing number of surface oscillations behind the bore front. Defining the bore strength as the ratio of the head of the undular bore to the undisturbed depth, ...

    • Wave-driven current and vortex patterns at an open beach: Insights from phase-resolving numerical computations and Lagrangian measurements 

      Jacobsen, Andreas Bondehagen; Roeber, Volker; Kalisch, Henrik; Buckley, Marc P.; Streßer, Michael; Cysewski, Marius; Horstmann, Jochen; Bjørnestad, Maria; Ige, Olufemi Elijah; Frøysa, Hege Guldbrandsen; Carrasco-Alvarez, Ruben (Journal article; Peer reviewed, 2024)
      Wave-driven currents have a substantial impact on local circulation patterns in and across the surf zone, and are responsible for cross-shore and longshore exchange of mass and momentum over a broad range of spatial and ...