Lagrangian Measurements of Orbital Velocities in the Surf Zone
Bjørnestad, Maria; Buckley, M.; Kalisch, Henrik; Streßer, M.; Horstmann, J.; Frøysa, Hege Guldbrandsen; Ige, Olufemi Elijah; Cysewski, M.; Carrasco-Alvarez, R.
Journal article, Peer reviewed
Published version
![Thumbnail](/bora-xmlui/bitstream/handle/11250/2992010/Geophysical%2bResearch%2bLetters%2b-%2b2021%2b-%2bBj%2brnestad%2b-%2bLagrangian%2bMeasurements%2bof%2bOrbital%2bVelocities%2bin%2bthe%2bSurf%2bZone.pdf.jpg?sequence=6&isAllowed=y)
Åpne
Permanent lenke
https://hdl.handle.net/11250/2992010Utgivelsesdato
2021Metadata
Vis full innførselSamlinger
- Department of Mathematics [939]
- Registrations from Cristin [9791]
Sammendrag
Eulerian and Lagrangian measurements of orbital velocities in waves approaching a beach are analyzed with the goal of understanding the relative influence of wave-by-wave variations in mean-water level, wave height and incipient wave breaking on mass transport properties of waves in the surf zone. It is shown quantitatively that elevated local mean-water level correlates positively with increased Lagrangian mass transport at the free surface. Eulerian ADV measurements in the fluid column suggest that the depth-integrated wave-by-wave mass transport also correlates positively with the local mean-water level, and is only weakly linked to wave height and wave-breaking events.