Hest, hjort, ku eller geit! Hvilke typer lær ble brukt til sko i Borgund på Sunnmøre i sen vikingtid og tidlig middelalder?

Abstract

Leather types and tanning technique used on shoes during the late Viking Age / early Medieval Periods in Norway, are addressed with 139 shoes from the deserted town Borgund in Sunnmøre, western Norway, as a case. Shoe-leather is species identified through hair follicle pattern interpretation and ZooMS analysis. Tanning technique is assessed visually. The study shows that the Borgund-shoes were made of leather from domesticated animals, predominantly from cow (Bos taurus), but also horse (Equus caballus), goat- (Capra circus) and tentatively sheep (Ovis aries) was used. Furthermore, raw tanned leather was used for both soles and shoe uppers in Borgund. Borgund’s strong preference for leather made of cattle has parallels in both Danish and English contemporary urban contexts, whereas horse leather is not previously identified as shoe-leather in contemporary Norse-sphere urban contexts. For future research an atlas of Viking Age / Medieval hair follicle patterns based on archaeological leather finds is presented.