Mass-transport for surface water waves

Abstract

In this thesis we study the mass-transport and mean-water level for various waves. By expanding linear wave theory up to second order , we study the mass-transport for wave groups in deep and shallow water. Numerical experiments show that this expansion causes a negative mean water level. This has a great influence on the mass-transport in shallow water. However, for deep water this effect is negligible. We also calculate the mass-transport for shoaling waves using experimental data from a wave flume. As the water gets too shallow for linear theory to be valid, non-linear theory has to be applied. Finally, we compare particle paths and mean-water level from field measurements with theory. By using the KdV-equation, the theory explains the measurements well. A strong correlation between mass-transport and mean-water level is also observed.